Aperitifs at sundown, quaint streets, and Italian sunshine. Sound familiar?
Nope, we’re not talking about the likes of Florence or Naples.
Hop across the Adriatic sea from Venice and you’ll find Trieste, a unique border town that you’ve probably never heard of – but one you’re going to want to add to your city-break hit list.
Almost entirely surrounded by Slovenia, Trieste is a melting-pot of different cultures, which Lonely Planet described as being perfectly exampled in the local dialect, ‘a strange melange of Italian, Austrian-German, Croatian and Greek.’
While Trieste was once a little forgotten – hidden away in the north of Italy and even described as a ‘nowhere place’ – times have changed.
Ever since neighbouring Slovenia’s popularity began to boom with travellers, tourism has picked up. There’s now a thriving foodie and arts scene, and the uber cool hotel chain, 25hours, is set to open in Trieste next year. Not to mention, its stunning.
‘A beautiful place both during the day and at night but it never feels crowded or overrun. Simplystunning,’ wrote one TripAdvisor reviewer. While a second described it as ‘so serene and beautiful’.
The FT recently said the city was ‘the comeback kid’ – so, if you want to get ahead of the curve, here’s everything you need to know about Italy’s next big holiday spot.
How to get to Trieste
The great news is that Trieste has an airport, which is about a 40 minute car journey outside of the city centre.
You can book a direct flight from the UK, with prices starting from just £48 return with Ryanair in May. Even in August, in the height of summer, return flights are just £132.
The only downside is that at the moment, the flights are only operated out of Stanstead Airport. Currently, one flight a day is scheduled to depart on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and at the weekend.
What’s the weather like in Trieste
As you’d expect from an Italian city, Trieste has a Mediterranean climate, with warm summers and colder winters.
The best time to visit is during thesummermonths, from June to September, when the temperature reaches highs of 30°C in July.
It’s worth keeping in mind that the area often feels the effects of the Bora, a wind that blows from the mountains into the Gulf of Trieste – which on occasion, can get pretty gusty.
It’s said though that the locals like the wind, because of the intense emotions it sparks – when it’s a calm day, they long for it to return.
Where to stay in Trieste
Travelling in the shoulder season, in May or October, when there are less tourists, is a good idea if you want to grab yourself a bargain hotel stay.
Booking.com hotel prices (for a 3* hotel, rated ‘fabulous’ stay) start from around £139 for two nights in May, compared to £204 in August.
Five fab hotels to stay at in Trieste on Booking.com:
- CASANOSTRA apartments – £191
- Mercato Vecchio Suite – £226
- Ora et Labora – £246
- Palazzo Talenti 1907 – £186
- Appartamento Elegante Teatro Rossetti – £212
Prices checked in April 2024 for a two night stay in July 2024 in Trieste City Centre.
What to do in Trieste
Stazione Rogers is an abandoned petrol station, which swapped serving up unleaded for aperitifs, and is now a thriving cultural centre. As well as being the perfect place for sundowners overlooking the water (with DJs and live music until 2am) there’s also a space for art exhibitions, performances and gigs.
Make sure you wander through the historic centre, full of independent shops and quaint cafes. This is also the area where you can take in some of the top cultural attractions – including the cathedral and the waterfront Piazza Unità d’Italia, which is said to be modelled on Venice’s St Mark’s – but might be even more beautiful, and is the largest square overlooking the sea in Europe.
Trieste is proud of its literary heritage – James Joyce lived here while writing Ulysses, and you’ll spot the plaques signaling his various homes (he was often evicted for refusing to pay rent) across the city. There’s a Joyce museum, dedicated to the Irish writer, and the Literature Trieste Museum is also set to open this year. Or, head to a book shop and while away a few hours reading with a coffee – San Marco is a popular spot.
For views that stretch across the sea, visit the Faro della Vittoria, a lighthouse which is open to the public (for free). Each year, theBarcolana regatta, which takes place every October, sees the waters fill up with sailing boats. Tourists should also take a trip to the must-visit fairytale castle, Miramare Castle, which sits atop a rocky cliff.
From panoramic views, to heading below ground, the Grotta Gigante is a vast underground cave about 20 minutes outside of Trieste. One of the chambers, theGrande Caverna, is 98.5m high, and 76.3 m wide.Visitors can take tours all year round.
And, if you have enough time, you can also take a day trip over to Slovenia, and visit Lake Bled, which is less than an hour’s drive away.
Food and drink in Trieste
Don’t book a flight to Trieste expecting only to eat pizza and pasta. We know, this is Italy (and of course, you can order it here) but the influences of its surrounding nations have had a big impact on how the Trestines eat.
Buffets are a big thing here, a tradition which harks back to when the city was under Austrian rule. Think cured meats, smoked sausages and cheese. It’s said you haven’t really been to Trieste unless you’ve indulged at a buffet.
Jota is also a popular local dish, essentially a Slovenian soup made with sauerkraut, potatoes, and beans – often with added pancetta.
Seafood is also a favourite. You’re likely to spot sardine dishes on the menu, but it’s always worth asking about the catch of the day.
And of course, you can wash your meal down with a grappa – the notorious liqueur which hails from the north of Italy. If alcohol isn’t your thing, Trieste is Italy’s biggest consumer of coffee (and gets the crown of Italy’s ‘capital of coffee’) with the famous brand, Illy, hailing from the city.
But, make sure you know what you’re ordering. In Trieste, an espresso is a ‘nero’ and a cappuccino is a ‘cafelatte’. And make sure you ask for it in a glass – locals say it tastes better that way.
How expensive is Trieste?
According to Budget My Trip, you can expect to spend about £88 a day in Trieste, on food, drink and activities.
Trattoria alla Sorgente, a seafood restaurant popular with locals, lists its price range as around £22 – £44 per person.
For that all important buffet, Buffet Da Pepi has been serving hungry customers since 1897. For one person, a mixed charcuterie platter is just €8.
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Attractions are affordable too, with many of them free. The Miramare Castle is just €12.
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